Canumi’s yellowfin tuna is caught in the Atlantic and then gently steamed and packed with fresh water in a storied factory in Galicia, Spain. A tin costs about $6 and comes inside an Instagram-ready, peach-colored box designed with spunky typefaces. (The brand also makes tote bags.) I am, honestly, desperate to try it, but it’s been sold out in America for weeks. Also, it’s for dogs.

If you are old enough to be reading this and you grew up with a dog, he probably did not eat anything that would appeal to a human adult with a reasonably sophisticated palate. What he ate, in all likelihood, was kibble: hard, stinky, cereal-like pellets of grains and a small amount of meat, processed at high heat and pressure and sold by a global food mega-conglomerate in a big, unphotogenic bag …

Today’s dogs—at least the ones with rich parents—have much more appealing, and expensive, options.